Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Signs, Signs, Everywhere A Sign


People often wonder how Pilgrim's stay on course while walking the Camino.  Although there was a time or two when I didn't pay attention and got off the path, along the hundreds of miles/kilometers, The Way is clearly marked.  However, the style of markings can change from city to city or region to region.  Below are some of the directional signs/markings I encountered, along The Way.


 

 

 

 

 

 



 

 

 


 


 


 

Monday, October 6, 2014

MY POST CAMINO THOUGHTS


Before Beginning The Camino
From the moment I heard about the Camino, I knew I wanted to experience it. My reasons for wanting to do so had nothing to do with a feeling that something was missing from my life. It also had nothing to do with a late pro-life crisis or a need to find myself. I wanted to experience the challenge of it, see a part of Europe in a different way and if the long days of walking, internal dialogue and quite brought inspiration, that would be a bonus.

Along The Road
I've always found steep inclines to be the most physically demanding part of hiking. While some hike the inclines with seemingly little difficulty, I struggled. The same was true with the endless undulations of the Camino. Though over time my incline management proficiency increased, I still need more improvement.

One important point that all Camino bound walkers should note, the Camino is mostly a path of rocks. This includes, gravel, small rocks, medium rocks, large rocks, jagged rocks, smooth rocks paved stones and lots more. The rocks can eat up your feet. Also, if you're not a young person, who thinks they're invincible, the rocks (especially on the downhill) will require your focused attention with each step.  Because when you're older, you are keenly aware that a misstep could lead to a twisted ankle or even worse, a fall.  So, a misstep could possibly be your last step, on the Camino.  This high level of concentration can be very stressful and draining. 
NOTE: Since posting this, a fellow Georgian slipped on rocks while walking up a hill on the Camino.  The fall resulted in a cut near the eye and a black and blue eye.  The rocks can be dangerous.  Please walk with caution.

Check your shoes often for wear.  I can't stress this enough.  After returning home, I looked at my hiking boots to see how they had held up from the miles of walking and discovered that my left foot issues may have been partly due to the outer sole on my left shoe being worn down past the rubber.  While on the Camino it never occurred to me to check the wear on the soles of my shoes.  I was so certain they were holding up.  Don’t know why I made that assumption.

The First Few Weeks of The Camino

In the beginning, it's about setting up a routine. What you do each morning to prepare for the day's walk, what you eat for breakfast, when you eat breakfast, how long you walk before taking a break, how far you'll walk, where will you sleep (outside, albergue, hostel, pensions or hotel), will you wash your clothes today or tomorrow, showering, rest or not, where and what will you eat for dinner or will you cook, what time will you go to bed, what will you wear the next day (the choices are very limited) and what time will you get started tomorrow.

During this time, you also learn about how people come in and out of your life. Some you'll see again and again, others you'll see only once. Some will make a lasting impression and others won't impress. Then, there are the angels. Those who appear at just the right time and say or do exactly what you need at that moment in time and then they're gone.

The first few weeks you learn that everyday is an opportunity for a new experience of life, it's beauty, it's challenges and the people you meet along the way. How you experience it is all up to you.

In The Flow of The Camino

Once you've been on the Camino for a while, the routine is set, you have made some friends, you're enjoying the adventure, you're getting stronger and life is good. Then, you hit the Meseta and everything changes. There aren't as many cute little towns, the views aren't as interesting and you wish it would end sooner.

This is your time to find the beauty where it is not always evident. Find beauty in the silence and tranquility of the blandness of the Meseta.

Getting To The End 

The goal is Santiago de Compostela. Getting there is both the challenge and the reward. While walking, try to focus less on the end game and more on the moment. When you do this, the experience will be far more rewarding.

Getting Back to Everyday Life
I believe the Camino is a microcosm of everyday life. Enough said.

Walking the Camino again?
No, I would not walk the Camino again. Some have said I may change my mind, but I've always been a "Been there. Done that", kind of gal. There are so many wonderful and interesting things to do and see, I rarely have the desire to repeat an experience. I like enjoying the memory of the first experience. That is the indelible memory.

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

DAY THIRTY-TWO - Santiago de Compostela - Continued

The next stop was the Pilgrim's Mass. Along the way, I got separated from Juo and Ryan. I never saw them again. After checking my backpack and hiking poles at a place set up for arriving Pilgrims to temporarily store their belongings, while attending mass or locating accommodations, I entered the Cathedral.

The Cathedral was filled to capacity with pilgrims, non-pilgrim visitors and tourists.


The Cardinal
 

The men in the burgundy robes pull the Botafumerio suspension rope

Pilgrims always hope to be able to attend a mass at which the Botafumerio will be swung. This was also my hope and we were all fortunate enough to see it. Below is some history from Wikipedia:


The Botafumeiro is a famous thurible found in the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral (in the past similar devices were used in large churches in Galicia, nowadays sometimes is used in the Tui Cathedral). Incense is burned in this swinging metal container, or "incensory". The name "Botafumeiro" means "smoke expeller" in Galician.[1]

I posted a video of the Botafumerio swinging ceremony on Facebook:

Botafumerio swinging video

The certificates, Cotolaya and Compostela received:

Top Left=1/2 Way Certificate from Sahagun
Top Right=Camino Compostela
Lower Left=Total Kilometers Completed Certificate
Lower Right=The Cotolaya-Given only this year to commemorate 
the 800th Anniversary of St. Francis of Assisi's pilgrimage 
from Italy to Santiago de Compostela

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

DAY THIRTY-TWO - Pedrouza to Santiago de Compostela

The day began at 4 a.m. As everyone slept, I quietly gathered my things and prepared for the last day of walking. By 5 a.m., I was leaving the albergue and beginning to walk the final 20k to Santiago de Compostela. As I was preparing to leave, Julia and Ryan were also making their preparations.

Since we left at approximately the same time, I asked if they'd mind me walking with them. They were glad to have me and I was glad to not be walking alone. We'd have nearly 3 hours of walking in the dark.

Usually, on the Camino, you find a place for food or drink every 3 to 5 miles. This morning, we left so early, that even 3 hours into our walk, no businesses were open. After nearly 4 hours of walking, we finally came upon a roadside refreshment business.  The business was setup down the hill from the Monte do Gozo Sculpture.

Placed to celebrate Pope John Paul's visit and 
the pilgrimage of Saint Francis of Assisi in the early 13th century.









Julia and I were craving a cafe con leche. This place wasn't capable of satisfying our craving. We bought a little snack, rested a short while and moved on. We wanted to make it to the noon Pilgrim's Mass at the Cathedral. Getting a seat at the mass would require us to be there by around 11 a.m. It was now about 9:15 a.m., there was no time to waste.

At about 9:40 a.m. on Sunday, September 28, 2014, we reached the Camino de Santiago sign.



What we didn't realize, the sign we were so happy to see, wasn't even close to the Cathedral and the end of the Camino. We still needed to walk another 3 miles or so, before reaching the end. We walked and walked and walked some more through the city and towards the Cathedral.

Finally, we were told it was not far ahead. Here is what is just prior to the Cathedral area:


After weeks of walking, painful injuries, meeting wonderful people, seeing beautiful countryside, eating great food and having the experience of a lifetime, it begins to end here. I was filled with a flood of emotions, but most of all, I was filled with thankfulness. I was thankful for completing the Camino (there were times when I wondered if my body would allow it) , for the love and support of my family and friends, for my employer who allowed me to take the time off and for the experience of the physical and emotional journey. And yes, my eyes were also filled, with tears of joy.

DAY THIRTY-ONE - Arzua to Pedrouza

Only two more walking days and I'll be in Santiago. The nights and mornings here have become much colder. The Galicia region began not far outside of Sarria. This region is known for its cooler and wetter climate.

Pilgrims making their way down the Camino

A very old church on the Camino











Here are more of the day's sights:

Washing rugs the old fashion way.       Picked vegetables to be stored

Dual purpose box -
One side for crates (mail) and the other for delivered fresh pan (bread)









Felt pretty good today. Lots of up and down hills, but the distance was shorter. Found a new albergue that is out of the way and quite. But then, a bus load of teenage girls doing a Camino trip arrive at the albergue. Their previous stays along the Camino have already gained them a reputation of being loud and self-centered. Within an hour of their arrival, the hospitalero was already asking them to be quieter and consider that they weren't the only ones in the albergue. Within two hours of their arrival, they'd clogged one of the two toilets and rendered it unusable and made the common bathroom a general mess.

With the plan to rise early and start the last day of walking by 5 a.m., I shared an early meal and a couple glasses of wine with two wonderful Pilgrim women. We made a pass by the old town church and I retired to the albergue for a good night's sleep. I put in my earplugs, covered my head and slept well into the very early a.m.