DAY NINETEEN - Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

Went to sleep very early yesterday. Though the walk yesterday was short, dealing with the various foot ailments and associated pain left me exhausted. There was a festival that concluded yesterday. It included lots of noise and loud music throughout the night. The music was still going this morning, as I left town. 

Earplugs are essential on the Camino. They greatly reduce the sounds of the night (this includes snoring and loud pilgrims). With my earplugs in, I was easily able to sleep through the festivities, but this morning, noise complaints flowed freely from the pilgrims, in every language.

After checking my blisters and removing as much fluid as I could, I left the aubergue in Mansilla de las Mulas around 7:00 a.m.and walked to the bus station. The bus to Leon arrived on time, I paid the 1.65 Euro fare and was on my way. It would be a short 20 minute ride to Leon.

While riding the bus, I received an IM from Susan (the American I encountered on the first day), from Tennessee. She has been having a difficult time adjusting to being on her own. She will be 61 soon and has never spent anytime alone and away from her family. She has always been taken care of. There is no one to coddle her on the Camino. Every adversity has been a major event for her and crying is a daily occurrence. 

In her message, she says, "I'm in Sarria. Going to get this over with." She has taken the train and skipped nearly 200 kilometers of the Camino. Sarria is the minimum starting point on the Camino. By starting there and walking a little over 100 kilometers to Santiago, one can still receive a Compostela (certificate of completion). I wished her Buen Camino.

Upon arrival in Leon, I inquired as to where I'd find the cathedral and The Parador . My feet were causing a lot of discomfort. As I crossed a bridgeway, in front of me was a hospital. I intended to go to a clinic this morning, but I was so uncomfortable, the hospital seemed to be a perfect solution. 

Upon entering, I approached the registration desk and asked if the intake person spoke English. She did not. She asked for my medical card. What she wanted was my Spanish medical card, but since I'm not Spanish, I couldn't provide one. I gave her my passport and eventually, she realized I was American.

She began explaining that this hospital provided free services to Spanish citizens with medical cards and since I didn't have one, she couldn't help me. I'd need to find a clinic. At least I think that's what she said. I asked her where the clinic was located, but she couldn't understand or couldn't explain. I'm not sure which was the case. She left her station and began looking for someone who could speak to me in English and explain the situation.

When she returned, she began processing paperwork, so I could be seen by someone. I guess someone told her that pilgrims receive treatment gratis. After the paperwork was completed, I was escorted to the fifth floor and into a room. The gentleman asked me what ailment I had. I showed him the bottom of my right foot and after saying something I didn't understand, he called in two other people. They had a brief discussion and two ladies told me to follow them. 

The two ladies, Carmen and Felicitas treated my blisters, tried communicating as best they could, bandaged my feet and told me to return on Wednesday morning at 8:30, for a recheck. 

The agony of the feet.               Felicitas
  

I thanked them for their assistance and treatment and walked on. 

 

While searching for the cathedral, I happened upon the Parador. My reservation is for Tuesday night, but thought I'd check to see if there might be a lower available rate for tonight. There was not. 

The Parador

I knew getting back to the Camino would yield some less expensive room possibilities. Thank goodness, the Camino crossed in front of the Parador. I walked out the entrance and turned right. Immediately, I was back on the Camino. After crossing a short bridge and walking less than a block, came upon Hostal Quevedo. It was near cafes, the center of town, the Parador and the price was right, only 29.79 euros. I asked to see a room and found it to be satisfactory.

The walk, standing and waiting for service at the hospital, checking into the hostal and trying to get wireless connection (he had to reboot the server), added up to a lot of time on my feet (standing hurts more than walking). They were now throbbing with pain. Once in my room, I took a 600 mg ibuprofen and hoped the pain would subside quickly.